New York’s Fashion Week is here! Fashion draws from history and designs of the past, to inspire designers’ vision for the future. Beauty is much like fashion in that sense. Have you ever noticed that every model/actress, even your own mother, looked fabulous in the 60s? Some of their secrets included adding height to the crown of the head and attaching false eyelashes. Most women look good with a little extra height. Wish you were 5 foot 8 instead of 5 foot 6? I do. Cheat by back brushing (back combing with a brush) and gently teasing rectangular sections across the top of your head. Spray with a very light aerosol hairspray and gently use a brush to smooth the hair for a soft, natural lift. Side swept bangs look particularly flattering with height in the crown. If individual lashes are too difficult to maneuver try cutting a strip eyelash into 3 or 4 pieces, applying to the corners of the eye after a light coat of mascara. Sexy lady-like looks of the sixties will be a big hit this fall.Product Recommendations

The Krembs Teasing Brush is great for creating lift in the crown.

Shu Uemura false eye lashes are some of the best I’ve ever used. Available at our salon (but not online): 212-677-7315 x 4.

Ardell is a good drug store alternative for false lashes.

This coming holiday weekend is a great time to catch up on your beauty treatments:

Try using a clarifying shampoo to remove the product buildup of summer leave-in conditioners and anti- humidity agents. It will remove the residue that inhibits styling products from doing their job.

For those of you who never seem to find time to apply a mask to your face or hair, set up a few products at the side of your bath tub or shower. This easy access should help to keep you from putting off important cleansing rituals. Shampoo your hair first, squeeze out excess water, and apply a rich hair treatment. It is important to remove excess water from your hair, ideally by towel drying, before applying the mask. If the hair is too wet the mask may slip off and be diluted, which substantially reduces its effectiveness. While the hair mask is on, apply a clay mask to your face to purify the skin. The steam from the hot water will keep the mask moist and easier to rinse off.

Products

I love the Sunday Shampoo by Bumble and bumble for ridding the hair of product build-up (not to be used more than once per week).

For the hair masque I recommend the Alfaparf Real Cream or the Kerastase Age Recharge Masque.

Another great conditioning treatment is the Alfaparf Essential Serum (come with 6 vials).

For the skin I recommend Yonka Masque 103 or 105.

Those of us with curly hair have been taught to scrunch the hair while drying. But be careful not to scrunch too hard, or you will crush the curls and create frizz, which makes you look like you had a “bad perm.” Instead, apply leave-in conditioner to towel dried hair, comb thoroughly for even distribution, and with a diffuser gently apply heat while softly lifting and cradling the natural curls with your hands. Continue to do so until the hair is dry. Finally, loosen the curls by gently shaking your hair at the root with your hands.

Products
Leave-in Conditioner by Bumble & bumble.
Sublimateur Jour by Kerastase. This is a new product that’s great for dry hair. Apply with or without heat.

This week I welcomed Bonnie Kyle, the Director of The Spa at the Peninsula Beverly Hills, www.peninsula.com. Bonnie and I shared wonderful ideas on how to create your very own spa experience at home.

Last week while staying at the Peninsula Beverly Hills I had the opportunity to visit The Spa. I enjoyed a wonderful facial, body treatment and massage. The oxygen facial was the perfect remedy for my skin after traveling on an airplane as was the body massage. The anti-cellulite body treatment called Espresso Limon Slim and Fit by Epicuren was also fantastic. It started with dry body brushing to bring toxins to the surface of my skin. Then a mixture of espresso extract and oil of lemon was applied and I was and wrapped in a mylar blanket to keep my body heat enclosed. This allowed my skin to sweat, releasing water retention and over all creating the ultimate detoxifying experience. The service and luxury at The Spa was exceptional and calming. My skin still feels smooth, plump and healthier than ever.

To create your own spa experience at home:

Start with a hot bath, add one cup of Epsom salt (can be found at any drugstore), and 8 to 10 drops of an invigorating essential oil. Eucalyptus and Rosemary are my favorites. Soak for 10 to 20 minutes, then with a natural bristle body brush or loofah, scrub your skin with back and forth motions until it is slightly pink. Body brushing is a wonderful detoxifier and helps to reduce the appearance of cellulite, as well as remove dry and flaky skin. I like to apply a clay mask to my face while soaking for 20 minutes and sip chilled water with a wedge of lemon. When you get out of the tub, gently pat yourself with a towel without completely drying your skin. Massage a relaxing oil all over your body. You can create your own body oil by mixing a few drops of your favorite essential oil into a base of jojoba, apricot seed, or almond oil. Oil is far superior to body creams, and will leave a luminous sheen to your skin.

For a great clay mask try Yonka’s Masque 103 (for normal to oily) or 105 (for dry or sensitive). They both help to detoxify the skin, tighten pores and leave you with a purified clear complexion.

A bit of bronzer can give your skin an instant healthy glow. It’s the best way to add some color to your skin without using blush (which often looks unnatural). With a fluffy brush or a powder puff, dip into bronzing powder (a compact is best), tap off excess, and brush generously all over face, neck and breast bone. The results are truly amazing!

Products
T. LeClerc Pressed Powder in Dore color. Great for use as bronzer.
La Fee De Paris Down Powder Puff

I love to use a hairband to extend a great blow out past the second day. The secret to wearing a hairband is to add height to the crown of the head. For a soft lift, tease a few sections using a teasing brush which will create a sexy, girly look. Try pulling your hairband closer to the hairline with bangs forward, or wear your hairband further back, tease the crown and pin the hair up. For shorter hair, pull the hairband over the top of the ears and style your hair towards the face. There are a great variety of hairbands available at my online beauty store at www.evasbeautystore.com.

Antioxidants for Skin

Free radicals are unstable molecules that come from the sun, and environmental pollution to attack the healthy cells of our skin causing skin to age and form wrinkles. Antioxidants have the ability to fight and protect our skin from these free radicals. Look for moisturizers that contain antioxidants like Vitamin C, E, and green or white tea. These antioxidants will neutralize free radicals, and protect the skin.SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic contains powerful antioxidants that fight the free radicals and protect your skin from the sun. This is a great product to layer under La Roche Posay Anthelios XL SPF 50+ Creme.

Retinol

I often discuss the importance of using a retinol cream once you reach your 30’s or 40’s. Retinols are a form of vitamin A that promote cell turnover and collagen production. They actually slow down the aging process by reducing fine lines and wrinkles as well as gently resurface the skin so that it looks radiant. My favorites are Retin-A and Renova which are prescription strength creams prescribed by your dermatologist. Drugstores also carry retinol creams that contain gentler, less potent forms of retinol. Olay Pro X line is a good one as well as RoC - both found in drugstores.

Beauty Sleep

The skin repairs itself at night when the body is at rest. So the best time to treat our skin is when the skin isn’t under the stress of free radicals. Use your repairing creams in the evening when your skin is able to reap the full benefits and perhaps undo some of the damage that is unavoidable during the day time.

Are you one of those women who have tons of beauty products that you almost never use? Personally, I find it hard to remember to use all the wonderful products I have in my bathroom or closet. I actually have a beauty closet because I have so many products that they’ve long outgrown my medicine cabinet. The key to using products is keeping them in front of you. Invest in a small open shelving unit (without doors) where you can beautifully display your personal care products. Keep body lotion or body oils near your bathtub so you remember to use them. If you don’t want to clutter your bathroom, there are ways to contain products more beautifully. You can purchase nice looking glass or plastic bottles and transfer all of your favorite products to them. A set of clear plastic bottles containing different color products can look great in your shower. The more accessible things are and the more inviting they look, the more likely you will be to use them. I’m also a big believer in the vanity. When products are in front of you, it can feel very luxurious to sit down for a few minutes each day and use them.

Products
Muji is a great place to buy beautiful product containers.

A simple hairband is a great compliment to any hair style. By wearing the hairband close to the hair line you can allow the hair to dry naturally and off the face - great for the summer when it’s too hot to blow dry. You can also wear a band further back, tease the crown, and pin the hair up into an upsweep. Hairbands can also hide roots. The band shown in the photo above can be found on my website at www.evasbeautystore.com, and is available in 5 colors.

Exfoliation for Flawless Skin

Exfoliation is an important part of any skin care routine. It helps to remove dead skin cells so that masks, serums and moisturizers can be fully absorbed into the skin. Be cautious of generic facial scrubs made from synthetic materials, as these can be too abrasive and harsh on the skin. These can actually scratch the surface of your skin! It’s also easy and economical to make your own scrub at home. Try this recipe that I found in Julie Gabriel’s book, The Green Beauty Guide.

Whisk together in a glass bowl 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 3 drops of rose oil and 1 drop of vanilla extract. Massage all over face and neck for 2-3 minutes and rinse with warm water and a wash cloth to remove any residue. Then tone and moisturize as usual.

All Natural Toner

This recipe is also from J. Gabriel’s book, The Green Beauty Guide. I love making my own toners from essential oils and mineral water. It’s best to store them in a glass spray bottle, rather than plastic.

Steep 3 organic tea bags in a mineral or spring water for about 10 minutes (you want it to be strong). Let the tea cool until it is luke warm, but keep it covered so that you preserve the steam. Once the tea is cool remove the tea bags from the water and add 5 drops organic tea tree oil, 2 drops geranium oil, 1 drop eucalyptus oils, 1 mg green tea extract, and 1 mg Acai extract. Store this soothing potion in the fridge for up to one month.

How do you control summertime frizz if you have wavy or curly hair? In addition to a great haircut that removes bulk to allow the hair to naturally lay closer to the head, the right products are key. Try using a quarter-size drop of deep conditioning hair mask as a leave-in conditioner. This will give your hair the weight and curl definition to look beautiful even in the most humid weather.

Products
Alfaparf Real Cream PH 4, available at www.evasbeautystore.com.

My current favorite book for natural beauty remedies and homemade beauty products is Julie Gabriel’s “Green Beauty Guide”. Below I share with you two of my favorite recipes.

Chamomile Rinse for Blonde Hair

This rinse will enhance highlights in fair hair, for a sun kissed summer look!

1. Boil 1 cup water then steep 6 chamomile tea bags for 15 minutes.

2. Add 1/2 cup yogurt and 5 drops lemon oil to the tea and mix.

3. Apply the mixture to dry hair, working through the ends, and cover with a non-PVC plastic shower cap. Leave on for 20 minutes, then shampoo hair as usual.

The Rose Witch Toner

Blend the following ingredients ins a stainless steel shaker:

3 ounces witch hazel, 2 ounces rose water, 1 teaspoon calendula ticture, 1 drop rose oil, 1 drop geranium oil

Shake vigorously, then pour into a glass bottle and use within one month.

This week on Beauty Talk I discussed the difference between serums and moisturizers. These products have very different properties and work in different ways. Moisturizers protect your skin from environmental damange and maintain the moisture balance within the skin. They typically have some active ingredients that can be found in a serum, but only a small amount. Serums are 100% pure active ingredients that help heal hydrate and can resurface the skin. The molecular structure of these ingredients are smaller than a moisturizer and therefore can easily penetrate the top layers of the skin for a more profound result. Both are necessary in a daily skin care regimen. I suggest after cleansing and toning, using a thin layer of serum, followed by a thin layer of moisturizer and finish with a thin layer of sunscreen.

SUKI, an all natural skin care line that I carry in my salon and on my online beauty store, makes wonderful facial serums. Suki’s Pure Facial Moisture - Balancing ($32 at evasbeautystore.com) is made of 100% organic botanicals to balance the skin’s production of oil while hydrating. Suki’s Pure Facial Moisture - Nourishing ($30 at evasbeautystore.com) restores vitality and suppleness to the skin, while still allowing the skin to breath.

Organic Recipes from Julie Gabriel

Julie Gabriel’s book, The Green Beauty Guide, has some wonderful organic homemade beauty recipes that I believe can be easy and quick alternatives to some store bought products.

Hair Mask for Brunettes
Ingredients:
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon vinegar, ideally apple cider vinegar
Warm water, enough to make a nicely goopy paste (usually 2-3 tablespoons)
Method:
Whisk all ingredients into a smooth paste. Shampoo your hair, squeeze out the water, and apply the mask evenly. Keep it on for 2-3 min while you exfoliate, shave, or massage your skin.
Try avoiding to let the mask drip into the hair line, as it may stain your skin resulting in a Mickey Mouse face (those who dye hair at home know the risk; remove the residue by dabbing the stains with rubbing alcohol or vodka).
Rinse off and style your hair as usual.
You can multiply the amount of cocoa and vinegar according to your hair length.
Active ingredients: theobromine in cocoa, lactic acid in yogurt, acetic acid in vinegar

Check out Julie Gabriel’s book for more great recipes!

These photos illustrate the subtle and natural results that demi-permanent color offers. Demi-permanent color does not contain ammonnia and only gently permeates the surface of the hair cuticle. Therefore hair does not have a demarcation line as it grows out and softly blends into the hair.

Re-Lights is a new highlighting glazing product by Wella that will be coming out this fall. This demi permanent color can be used as a 15 minute gloss treatment applied to brighten existing highlights -or used as an all over 5 minute treatment to add shine and vibrancy to the hair.

One of my favorite makeup items is the concealer. It is a necessary tool for creating the perfect canvas on which to apply color. It brings forward facial areas that otherwise recede into shadows, while covering up imperfections in the skin. The texture to look for in a concealer is one that is silky, blends easily, and is one shade lighter than your complexion. Apply in thin layers, padding with your ring finger as you build up to the right amount of coverage. I often use two to three thin coats on myself and my clients. Another great tip is to use concealer around the corners of the nose and the lip line. This evens out the skin so beautifully that whatever lipstick you wear will look true to its own color. If you’re worried about a concealer creeping into and accentuating fine lines in the skin, try a foundation that is two shades lighter than your natural skin tone. Again, use the padding and layering technique to build coverage.

Products

T. LeClerc Corrector Fluid Concealer is one of the best I’ve used.
T. LeClerc Hydrating Fluid Foundation is also excellent.

This week on “Beauty Talk” we discussed how eating natural whole foods have a positive have an effect on skin and hair. Foods high in antioxidants make your skin glow, your hair sine and your fingernails to grow stronger. Good skin is a reflection of a good diet, be sure you are getting all of the vitamins, minerals, enzymes and amino acids that your body needs to be as healthy as possible.

How Vitamins and Minerals Effect Your Skin

Vitamin C helps to keep the skin tissue healthy. Some foods that contain this super vitamin are red peppers, strawberries, grapefruit, and collard greens.

Zinc can help minimize adult acne. Foods that are rich in Zinc include beef, oysters, lentils, and kidney beans.

I personally like to follow a rotation diet. It entails eating a variety of different healthy foods, such as fruits, vegetables, grains, etc. every day of the week, so that I’mt getting all of the essential nutrients my body needs. It’s not enough to just eat your favorite foods everyday, but it’s healthier to have a wide variety in your diet. To make sure you are getting all of the essentials for healthy beautiful skin, you can also take a multi-vitamin daily.

Healing Powers of Flaxseed Oil

The more I learn about flaxseed oil the more I am impressed by it’s power to heal and hydrate. Not only does this emolient oil hydrate the skin and hair, but it is a wonderful aid for digestion. The oil itself can be taken by capsule or by ingesting actual cold pressed flaxseed. You can add the latter to a smoothie, to your favorite salad dressing, or for the brave - taking two tablespoons with a juice chaser in the morning. You can also find pulverized flaxsee in a health food store and sprinkle it on salad, hot cereal or soup.

Product Pick of the Week

Alfaparf Illuminating Cristalli Liquidi ($32.00 or $15.00 at www.evasbeautystore.com) is an ultra-luxurious beauty fluid that instantly adds light, shine and softness to every hair type. Just distribute a few drops onto wet or dry hair. It’s anti-oxidant rich with vitamin E and linseed extract.